Hello. This month Shel and I were asked to focus on Home decor. I thought of several projects but ultimately came up with this one.
First let me give you a few facts. Because I plan to work on a wooden surface that is going to be around food, I wanted to make sure that I gave you good information about safety. Here are the 4 main project types you should consider using a food safe wood finish on:
Kitchen utensils (bowls, spoons, platters, etc…)
Raw meat prep surfaces (Cutting boards, butcher blocks, etc…)
Eat-on surfaces (bar tops, tables, counters, etc…)
With that said I have a few recommendations For your products and finish. First you will want to consider the paint you use. Milk paint is a good choice. I just googled food safe paint and found quite a few to select from from multiple places including Amazon.
What I think is most important is the sealer and I have several suggestions For you about that too.
This is a surface sealing, natural finish that comes from the Lac bug. You can bet it’s safe to consume, they coat candy with it after all. Shellac is a film-forming finish, and provides good protection from moisture. It leaves a glossy finish if applied thick enough and buffed out.
Pure Tung Oil
This one actually hardens as it cures and has water-resistant properties. And contrary to popular belief, pure tung oil does not affect those with “nut” allergies.
Food Grade Beeswax
This literally comes from the honeycomb of honey bees. There is a process used to refine it, but once complete, it’s safe for consumption. It’s commonly used to glaze fruit, as well as in the production of gel capsules and chewing gum. Avoid on surfaces that will get hot.
This is plant-based, and is considered safe for consumption because it is inert, non-toxic, and cannot be digested by humans. It’s often used for it’s “Shiny” properties, and can be mixed with beeswax to add water-resistance.
Food Grade Mineral Oil
This is a non-toxic, non-drying oil that is commonly used on butcher block tables and cutting boards. It must be re-applied as often as monthly, and will become brittle and crack if not maintained, so be sure to keep a bottle on hand.
Raw Linseed Oil
This drying oil comes from flax seeds, and offers protection from sun and water damage. It’s not refined so it literally goes from seed, to container, to your project. It does however take a really long time to dry, as long as a few weeks, and even up to over a month.
This is a food safe finish good for butcher blocks and cutting boards. Be sure to get the “distilled” so it won’t go rancid.
The main difference between penetrating oil finishes, and surface sealer finishes, is probably pretty obvious. The penetrating oils soak down into the wood and stay inside. They provide less protection, but they are easier to apply, and leave a more natural looking finish.
A surface sealer, also known as a film finish, remains on the surface and leaves a layer that can be built up for added protection. And as you probably expect, it’s more protective than penetrating finishes. If you are highly concerned about toxins in things like wood finishes, then you’ll be much more comfortable using the finishes on the list I’ve provided you above. you can check with your paint center and the FDA for cautions. so with that out of the way let’s work on our project. I have created a video for you so you can see the whole process.
I hope you enjoy my October home décor for StencilGirl and consider making some for your home or for your friends. Thanks for stopping by. https://www.stencilgirlproducts.com/